PeKo Radio
    The video below demonstrates the assembly procedure.
RVB-2 Assembly Tips & Tricks
Fig 11 - Outer Case placed back and secured using Epoxy Adhesive
    The next step is applying lots of two-part epoxy to fill the gap between the plastic core and the vibrator housing, as well
    as on the filed-out ridges holding the RVB-2 board. In this way, the board will be solid as a rock inside the vibrator case
    once the epoxy has cured.

    The next step (before curing any epoxy) is to slide the cylindrical top of the vibrator can over the remaining part of the
    plastic core (apply lots of epoxy on that part of the core as well before you place the top over it).  After closing, make sure
    the top case is lined up with the bottom pat in exactly the same manner that it was originally. This way you can match the
    unevenness between top and bottom half that might have happened when you did the earlier cutting.  

    Then, use tape to keep the two halves nicely pressed together and lined up while the epoxy is curing.
    Once cured, you can remove this tape.
    The end result will then look like what you see in photo in fig. 11. It is probably a good idea to print the words “silent solid-
    state vibrator” on the top of the case, this way the inevitable next owner of the equipment will not think the vibrator to be
    defect because he or she is unable to hear any hum coming from the vibrator…..
Fig 10 - RVB Board secured in Vibrator Bottom (no Epoxy Adhesive applied yet).
A prototype board is shown here, but the same applies to the RVB-2.
    The next step is securing the RVB-2 board in the original vibrator housing.  Most vibrators have a inside diameter of 1  
    3/8” .  It turns out this perfectly matches the plastic core of a spent adhesive tape roll.
    When you have such a core, file two opposing ridges into it (on the inside of the core) such that the RVB-2 board can
    slide into the core without force.  See fig 10 for an impression of this; the core has been filed with two opposing ridges,
    and was placed to slide around the RVB board.
    Then, push the core all the way down beyond the rim of the vibrator base (in the same way as shown in fig 10).
Fig 9 - RVB Board soldered to the Vibrator Pins (not closed yet).
A prototype board is shown here, but the same applies to the RVB-2.
    First you will have to open the defect vibrator. Some people prefer to nibble the crimped bottom away using pliers, but
    our experience is that this messes up the original vibrator appearance too much. A better method is to use a Dremel tool
    equipped with a thin cutting disc. With this disc, you should cut the circumference of the can at about 0.6 inch from the
    bottom. It is a good idea to first put tape around the vibrator with the tape edge at this 0.6 inch distance; this way the tape
    edge will function as a guide when cutting the vibrator circumference, resulting in a nice even cut.

    IMPORTANT: Always wear safety glasses (or goggles) when using a Dremel tool to protect your eyes! These grinding
    discs shatter easily and might damage your eyes when not wearing safety glasses!

    Next step is to remove the innards of the vibrator. The rubber material is easily removed. After removal of the rubber you
    should cut the connecting wires as close to the mechanical element as possible.
    Then, you can remove the wires by heating the vibrator contact terminals sufficiently at the tip using  a solder iron. Use
    additional rosin flux on the pins to make this de-soldering process go smoother. Just gently tug the wires until they come
    loose from the pins.

    Once the original wires are removed, you should remove all solder from the hollow pins. This is done easiest by heating
    the hollow pin sufficiently (again, use lots of additional rosin flux) and then blow hard in these pins, this will force out the
    excessive solder quite easily.

    Again, be careful here to make sure the blown-out solder does not damage anything, or that it might burn you when flying
    out. Blow it out onto a safe area.

    At this phase, all the hollow pins should be opened and free of solder. The next step is to solder somewhat rigid wires to
    the RVB-2 board and bend them such that they line up with the correct vibrator pins.  Then solder the wires in place at
    the vibrator pins. Make sure excessive solder is removed, and that remaining flux is removed using solvent. If you don’t
    do this, it will be very hard to later place the vibrator back in its original socket, because the pins have become too thick.
    So make sure to remove excessive solder and flux from the pins.
    See figure 9 for an impression of this phase of the process; the board is soldered into the pins and held upright in its
    place by the rigid wires.
    This chapter will give you tips on how to build the RVB-2 board into your defect vibrator such that the outer appearance
    of the original vibrator is not compromised.
    RVB-2 board dimensions

  • Length:      1-7/8” (47.5 mm)
  • Width:        1 3/32” (28 mm)
  • Height (including largest components):    11/64” (4.3 mm)